Monday, 8 June 2009

Phreeranger Upgrade



With the Laser gone I'm now left with no alternative but use the Phreeranger so I've started to make a few upgrades that I'd been thinking about. I replaced the original guylines/Alloy Rings/Alloy Sliders with 2mm Dyneema/Mini Lineloks from Team IO. The Phreeranger should have 3 lines along the back and 3 at each end attached to the pole sleeve. I've reduced the pole sleeve guys to 2 at each end mainly to reduce the number of pegs. I also ordered 6 alloy V pegs from Shelby Finland which as it turns out are made by Hampton Works, the makers of the original pegs and poles for the Phreeranger. The V pegs weigh in at 10g each. My provisional peg set is made up of

6 x Terra Nova Titanium Skewers (Voyager Type) at 5.5g each from Sub Zero Store
6 x Hampton Works V's at 10g each from Shelby Finland
2 x Vargo Nails at 15g each from Team IO
2 x Camcleat Y's at 16g each from Camcleat

Total weight including an Alpkit A6 Stuff Sack is 163g



One thing about the Phreeranger compared to the Laser is that the porch is a bit narrower, fortunately the inner is a bit wider so it's easy enough to unhook the front corners of the inner and push it back to create a bit more porch space. With the inner pushed right back to the centerline it can still take a full length rectangular sleeping mat although the inner is pretty close to your face when lying down.

I had an idea a while back that I intended to use on the Laser and that was to make a roll/slide back inner. Basically it involves having a cord tied to the rear corner loops of the inner tent which then runs along the ends of the inner, through the front corner loops and through a captive cordlock before hooking to the normal inner/fly shockcords. To move the inner back I simply press the cordlocks and slide the inner back on the cord in much the same way as curtains on a flexible wire. It took a bit of adjusting to get the tension right but it works really well, the inner can be pushed back to any point on the cord on one or both ends as required. The porch can be up to half the total area covered by the fly while still giving me enough inner tent space. I used a soft braided cord to give the cordlocks something to grip on but I may change to shockcord as it might be easier to balance the tension which changes as the inner is pushed back. I didn't have any captive cordlocks so I just tied them to the front attachment point with 2mm Dyneema which still left space for the cord.









The sewn in groundsheet isn't waterproof anymore and I'd toyed with the idea of sewing in a new one from lightweight groundsheet fabric but I'm going to have a go at making a complete new inner tent with a few modifications. I'll probably make it narrower than the original which might mean I can dispense with the roll back mod, I want the door to fall away to the side like most modern tents and I'll make the top half from mesh, depending on how it turns out I might make a plain cover panel. I already have all the materials in the form of a Robens Double Dreamer that got flattened at the May Day weekend last year. It was it's 1st run out, 2 of the poles were trashed. I didn't like it anyway as it was too big and the poles were going to cost almost as much as the tent did it's been lying in the garage. I'll have to dismantle one of the other Phreerangers to use as a pattern but it shouldn't be too difficult to put an inner together as all the seams are overlocked (serged) and my wife has an Overlocker (Serger). In the meantime I'll just have to use a footprint.

It has crossed my mind that although I can replace guys and pegs, can probably make a new inner and even buy a new poleset from Hampton Works the critical component is the fly which I can't replace and it's unlikely that I could make a new one. All I can do is carry on, use the best of the 3 flysheets that I have and keep my fingers crossed. Fortune favours the bold but fools rush in...............

Sunday, 7 June 2009

Ultralight Mug


I like to carry a separate mug in addition to the Alpkit Mity Mug that I use for cooking. My current mug is a Tibetan Titanium 450ml. I like it as I can use it directly on the stove for a brew although it doesn't come with a lid (I normally just set the Mitymug lid on) It only weighs 61g, is pretty tough and doesn't take up much space, in fact I could carry it inside the Mitymug along with my Meths stove if I didn't take one of my woodstoves which are designed to be carried in the Mitymug. As it is I stuff my repair kit into the Tibetan ti mug so it isn't wasted space.

I think I've come up with a better mug though. I found a 6 pack of Heineken in 330ml keg shaped cans and thought they might make a nice light mug. I couldn't cut the lid off with a safety can opener due to the shoulder on the can but I eventually figured a way to achieve the same result. I simply used a small metal file and filed the top edge of the rim away all the way around until the lid came free then smoothed it off with a scotch pad. Unfortunately the lid wasn't usable but using another can I carefully sawed my way around just below the rolled edge until I had the lid cut off. This works perfectly.

The result? a 16g Mug c/w lid. I'll give it a shot although it'll be more susceptible to damage than the Ti Mug. I might try to get one of the bigger versions then I could have a co-ordinated cookset, of course then I'll need some Green Lexan cutlery, it'll be almost like the new MSR sets only cooler ;-)

Fuel Bottles



I'm always on the lookout for bottles suitable for carrying Meths and I have a variety of sizes ranging from 30ml to 500ml some of which are spun alloy type while the rest are plastic. I also have a variety of different caps from plain screw caps to flip caps and even pull top sports bottle type. My current favourite is an Oval 300ml bottle. This is a liquid soap bottle and I'm pretty sure it was Carex, most bottles of this type are 250ml or 500ml but I specifically wanted a 300ml. It came with a pump dispenser but I found that a standard PET bottle cap fitted so I've used one from a 'Fruit Shoot' bottle, Blackcurrant flavour as I wanted the purple cap. I've used this on my last 2 trips and so far it has been fine. I find that the shape makes it easier to pack than a round bottle. These bottles come with a clear safety cap which can be clicked back on to help reduce the chance of the Pull Top being pulled up. I've started carrying a small measuring cup (25ml max) as I only need about 15ml for a cuppa and it makes it easier to measure the required amount. The bottle c/w 300ml weighs around 265g.



Plastic, 100ml, 250ml, 300ml & 500ml with Screw, Flip & Pull Caps

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Aluminium, 250ml, 100ml, 50ml, 30ml with Screw and Flip Caps

The Round Plastic and Aluminium are the ones I sell on my website, www.einzel-kocher.webs.com

Tuesday, 2 June 2009

No More Laser Mods!!


I finally admitted defeat and sold the Laser. It was a great tent once up, plenty of room for 1, nice and light even with the added footprint that I made and the upgraded pegs but I found it to awkward to pitch/strike. I've no idea what I'll go for next, I like the look of the Big Agnes Copperspur but PTC has one for review so I'll wait and see how it performs, the other contender would be the Terra Nova Voyager Superlight.

In the meantime I'm going to use the mk1 Phreeranger fly with a later inner (the later one has a full mesh door as well as a full plain one, the early one only has a plain door) it should easily see me through the summer. I'm using the same footprint I used with the Laser for the time being. I'd bought some Terra Nova 5.5g Titanium pegs with the intention of using them with the Laser so including a Sea to Summit Ultrasil 8L drysack and pegs the all in weight is 1860g, the last trip my complete Laser set-up weighed in at 1709g so there's only about 150g difference.

Of course when I last used a Phreeranger I was happy enough with it as it was, now I'd like to make a few changes to reduce the weight. I'm going to replace the guylines complete with their alloy rings and alloy sliders with 2mm Dymeema and Mini Lineloks, I might change the fly pegging points, they're all webbing with alloy rings but I think I can swap out the 4 corner ones for shockcord loops and cut the rings off the remaining webbing loops. I also have some mozzie net so I'd like to use my mk 1 inner but make the door half mesh, that would save the weight of the extra zip on the later inner.

Anyway, all good fun and I didn't lose too much on the Laser.

Sunday, 24 May 2009

Energizer Headlights

I've been using an Energizer 3 LED headlight for a while now but I've just been looking at the energizer website and there a few other interesting models that may be worth checking out.

http://www.energizer.eu/en/site/flashlight-outdoor

The Advanced Pro 7 Led looks interesting, water resistant to IEC 60529 IPX4 standard and with a multi position switch which is better IMO than a single switch to cycle through.

http://www.energizer.eu/files/flashlight_pdfs/hd7l33ae_EU.pdf

£19.99 seems like a good price.

Energizer Advanced Pro 7 LED, Batterycity. co. uk